**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

This in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is “meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading” (Outside Magazine). Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of Warshaw’s endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made surfing history happen. “The world’s most comprehensive chronicler of the surfing scene.” —Andy Martin, The Independent

Surfing has been a significant sport and cultural practice in Hawai‘i for more than 1,500 years. In the last century, facing increased marginalization on land, many Native Hawaiians have found refuge, autonomy, and identity in the waves. In Waves of Resistance Isaiah Walker argues that throughout the twentieth century Hawaiian surfers have successfully resisted colonial encroachment in the po‘ina nalu (surf zone). The struggle against foreign domination of the waves goes back to the early 1900s, shortly after the overthrow of the Hawaiian kingdom, when proponents of this political seizure helped establish the Outrigger Canoe Club—a haoles (whites)-only surfing organization in Waikiki. A group of Hawaiian surfers, led by Duke Kahanamoku, united under Hui Nalu to compete openly against their Outrigger rivals and established their authority in the surf. Drawing from Hawaiian language newspapers and oral history interviews, Walker’s history of the struggle for the po‘ina nalu revises previous surf history accounts and unveils the relationship between surfing and colonialism in Hawai‘i. This work begins with a brief look at surfing in ancient Hawai‘i before moving on to chapters detailing Hui Nalu and other Waikiki surfers of the early twentieth century (including Prince Jonah Kuhio), the 1960s radical antidevelopment group Save Our Surf, professional Hawaiian surfers like Eddie Aikau, whose success helped inspire a newfound pride in Hawaiian cultural identity, and finally the North Shore’s Hui O He‘e Nalu, formed in 1976 in response to the burgeoning professional surfing industry that threatened to exclude local surfers from their own beaches. Walker also examines how Hawaiian surfers have been empowered by their defiance of haole ideas of how Hawaiian males should behave. For example, Hui Nalu surfers successfully combated annexationists, married white women, ran lucrative businesses, and dictated what non-Hawaiians could and could not do in their surf—even as the popular, tourist-driven media portrayed Hawaiian men as harmless and effeminate. Decades later, the media were labeling Hawaiian surfers as violent extremists who terrorized haole surfers on the North Shore. Yet Hawaiians contested, rewrote, or creatively negotiated with these stereotypes in the waves. The po‘ina nalu became a place where resistance proved historically meaningful and where colonial hierarchies and categories could be transposed. 25 illus.

Account of running the Iditarod.

NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER • In this "wonderfully vivid, kinetic narrative" (The New York Times), the bestselling author of Voices in the Ocean captures colossal, ship-swallowing waves, and the surfers and scientists who seek them out. For legendary surfer Laird Hamilton, hundred foot waves represent the ultimate challenge. As Susan Casey travels the globe, hunting these monsters of the ocean with Hamilton’s crew, she witnesses first-hand the life or death stakes, the glory, and the mystery of impossibly mammoth waves. Yet for the scientists who study them, these waves represent something truly scary brewing in the planet’s waters. With inexorable verve, The Wave brilliantly portrays human beings confronting nature at its most ferocious.

A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.

Unwind on the pristine beaches of Maui, hike the famed coastline of Kaua'i, or experience the melting pot culture of the Big Island. Inside Moon Hawaii you'll find: Strategic itineraries ranging from a two-week tour of the state to day-trips and rainy-day options, with ideas for eco-tourists, beach bums, honeymooners, history buffs, and adrenaline junkies The top activities and unique experiences: Paddle an outrigger canoe, learn to surf the legendary waves, or relax on endless stretches of sandy beaches. Immerse yourself in history at Pearl Harbor and explore the burgeoning art and culinary scene of O'ahu's Chinatown. Hike through lava fields, waterfalls, and lush forests and get your fill of fresh produce at a local farmers market. Sample traditional Polynesian cuisine or watch the sunset at a romantic beachfront restaurant The best spots for sports and recreation including hiking, kayaking, whale watching, surfing, snorkeling, and scuba diving Expert insight from island local Kevin Whitton on when to go, how to get around, and where to stay, including how to decide which islands are right for your trip Detailed maps and full-color photos throughout Thorough information on the landscape, climate, wildlife, and local culture Full coverage of Waikiki, Honolulu, O'ahu's North Shore, Hanauma Bay, Kailua, Ko Olina, Lana'i, Moloka'i Lahaina, Kihei, Haleakala and Maui's Upcountry, the Road to Hana, Kona, Kohala, Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, Hilo, Hamakua Coast, Kamuela/Waimea and the Saddle Road, Lihu'e, Princeville, Po'ipu, and Waimea With Moon Hawaii's expert advice and local insight, you can plan your trip your way. Just visiting one island? Check out Moon Maui, Moon Kaua'i, Moon O'ahu, or Moon Big Island of Hawai'i.

The Girl's Guide to Surfing delivers all a girl needs to score the wave of her choice. The surfing population has recently exploded, and women are in the water more than ever. For all these hearty souls, author Andrea McCloud delivers down-to-earth instruction and indispensable advice. Find out what kind of surf equipment is specifically right for women and how to get it. Learn how to read local breaks and tides for catching the right wave at the right spot. Get the lowdown on surf etiquette to avoid getting yelled at, or worse, crashing into someone. And hear war stories from the pros about how they learned to surf, how they conquer fear, and what it's like to pull into a fat tube. Featuring loads of informative illustrations, sidebars, and tips, The Girl's Guide to Surfing is the bible for any girl who wants to catch a wave.

First published as Surfing USA! in 2005.

"Roth Family Foundation music in America imprint"--First printed page.